Millinery



Sept. 4, 1951 M, M REDDY 2,566,635

MILLINERY Filed May 2, 1949 ATTOR N EVS place and, at the same timeaffords an ornamental trim.

In general, the brim I of the hat frame will not be of uniform width,and therefore presents only a generally annular shape. Preferably inknitting the brim cover walls, the band or bands of ribbing exemplifiedat I8 or I9, are made concentric with the peripheral row I5 and thenonuniform width of the brim is compensated for in the knitting lyinginwardly of the ribbed sections. In the case of the upper brim coverwall I6, the circular knitting is continued until a width is attained(usually at the rear of the hat) equal to the minimum width of the brim.When the minimum width is reached, a predetermined number of stitchesare immediately cast off at the beginning of the following knit row. Theminimum width having thus been taken care of on the last round ofcircular knitting, stitches are then progressively cast oii at bothsides of this point, alo ternate rows being knit and purled in reversedirections, until the entire inner periphery of this brim cover wall hasbeen cast oif providing an opening conforming to the inner periphery ofthe frame-band I0.

In the case of the lower wall, commenced by knitting into one of theperipheral stitches I5, said stitch (of great structural importance)being directly above and in line with the last stitch of the number ofstitches cast off to take care of the minimum width of the upper brimwall, substantially the same knitting procedure is followed except thatin knitting the under brim wall, when the minimum width is reached, thepredetermined number of stitches are immediately cast olf at thebeginning of the last row of circular knitting, said beginning of lastrow being at a point where first stitch was picked up for knitting theunder brim wall; thus the inner periphery edge of the under brim wall atits minimum width lays exactly in line with the inner periphery edge ofthe upper brim wall at the minimum width, and the followingprogressively cast o stitches of the under wall brim lay in line withthose of the upper wall brim. A predetermined number of additionalcircular knit rows, preferably two, is inserted, desirably after theribbed trim row has been knit.

`As a result of the above procedure a brim cover is obtained having aperipheral line of cast-on stitches to engage the periphery of the framebrim I0, having an upper brim-covering surface conforming to the sizeand shape of the frame brim, and having a circular under brim cover wallwhich is sufficiently wider to turn in under the edge of the crown andbe sewn thereto. The brim cover so constructed, both before and aftermounting thereof on the frame-brim I0, is a generally annular at walledmember of inwardly opening U-shaped cross-section as shown in Fig. 4with its underwall I1 extending somewhat further inwardly than its upperwall I6.

The center of the initially cast-off portions of the peripheries of theannular walls I 6 and I1 lies at the rear center of the hat in the formshown and may readily be matched thereto, as the buckram wall I2 usuallyformed of a peripherally extending strip having its ends joined togetherat that point.

In the form shown the crown-top (Figs. 1 and 2) is fiat-knit instockinette stitch starting with relatively few stitches, increasing thenumber as the center line 2l is approached, and then decreasing to thefarther side of the element. Th1s unit in the form shown is intimatelySmQQifhf ly laid upon the frame-crown top I 4, Fig. 5, and sewn theretomarginally as at 22.

The crown-band 30, (Fig. 3) is knit in stock- Circularly. inette stitch,preferably commencing at its bottom edge 3 I, and being bound off at itstop edge 32, so that the top edge is provided with a finished appearanceand is less elastic than the main body of the crown-band.

Preferably as indicated in Figs. 1 and 3 the crown-band 30, contiguousto its lower edge, is provided with a band of ribbing 33 whichcontributes to the snugging of the lower edge thereof and also may takethe place of ribbon trim on the hat. l J

In addition the crown-band 3B is preferably provided contiguous to itsupper edge 32 with another band of ribbing 34 which contributes to theneat and ornamental appearance of the assemblage.

Following the construction of the pieces examplified in Figs. 2, 3 and4, and light pressing thereof, the crown piece, Fig. 2, is secured onthe crown-frame top I4 preferably with its stock-- inette rowsparalleling the front-to-rear center line of the crown. The brim cover,Fig. 4, is then applied with its peripheral row I5 abutting theperiphery of the frame-brim I 0, and the inner annular edges of thepiece I1 are then preferably sewed to the frame. The crown-band, Fig. 3,is thereafter applied with its edge 32 overlapping the cast-off edges ofthe crown-top 20, and with its lower edge 3| lapping, and preferablyoverlapping, the inner cast-off edge of the brim cover top wall I E.These overlapping edges are then sewn in place to complete the finishedproduct.

The invention is adapted to hats of various sizes and shapes providedwith closed or openA crowns and is not limited to the particular *Aswell as various and unusual knit stitches. embodiments herein set forthto exemplify the same.

The kit form of the invention, to attain the aforesaid objects, asexemplified in Fig. 6, comprises a hat frame. A (exemplified in moredetail in Fig. 5), a set of directions B for producing knit partscorrelated therewith, and a supply of yarn C sufficient to enablecomplete carrying out oi the directions.

In the particular embodiments herein selected for illustration, the hatframe-crown may have an average diameter of kapproximately seven inchesand an average depth of about three inches, and its brim may have awidth varying from about two and one-fourth inches inthe front to aboutone inch in width at the rear, and the directions included in the kitmay conform generally to the following exemplifying Directions for HandKnit Hat (copyright 1949 by applicant and duly deposited at theCopyright Office), which directions are hereby made a part of theillustrative embodiments of this disclosure:

DIRECTIONS FOR HAND KNIT HAT (Copyright 1949) MARGARET M. REDDYMaterials: 11g" circular needle No. 2; 1 pair 7" straight needles No. 2.

Gauge: 8 stitches to one inch. 12 rows to one inch. (Directions allowfor slight gauge variation) Y Knitting information:

I. To east on: (1) The Knitted-on method, veins @We este@ er both .remis0f Circular needle; or (2) the cast-on with one needle method.

II. To cast off: All stitches, knitted, purled or ribbed will be knitoff.

III. To increase at beginning and end of knit rows: KI, knit into backof next stitch, knit into front of same stitch, knit across row to nextto last stitch, knit into back of stitch, knit into front of samestitch, KI.

IV. To increase at beginning and end of purl rows: KI, knit into back ofnext stitch, yarn over (yo), purl into front of same stitch, purl acrossrow to next to last stitch, yo, knit into back of stitch, yo, purl intofront of stitch, PI.

V. To decrease at beginning and end of knit rows: KI, K2 together, Kacross row to next to last 3 stitches, K2 together, KI.

VI. To decrease at beginning and end of purl rows: PI, P2 together, purlacross row to next to last .3 stitches, P2 together, PI.

Directions for crown top (stockinettc stitch) Using straight needles,cast on sts. Increase each end of rst row, which is a knit row, andincrease each end of every knit and purl row, until 48 sts. are onneedle. Now stockinette even for 3, ending on purl row. Decrease eachend of every row, until I2 sts. are on needle. Cast ci not too tight.

Note: If you are an exceptionally tight knitter, increase this piece to50 sts. before beginning the 3 of even stockinette. Decrease to 12 sts.as above.

Directions for crown band Rib in Continue rib for 1/z Directions forupper brim With circular needles, cast on 255 sts. Knit plain for 1A.;inch.

Next row: *KL Pl, Ki, PI, Kl, Pl, KI, PI, Kl, Pl, Kl, Pi, Kl PI, K2 tog.Pl. Repeat from around row. (240 sts. now on needle.)

Rib even (Kl, PI) for 5 more rows. (1/2 in all).

Next row: (knit row) *K2 tog., Kit. Repeat from around row. (220 sts.now on needle.)

Note: Omit following directions enclosed in bracket for upper brim, butuse them for under brim.

[(Knit plain around next 2 rows.)]

Next row: K2 sts., cast off one of them, and cast oi 19 more 20 in all.Knit around rest of row. (200 sts. now on needle.)

Note: First st. to be cast off on all rows to follow, will be slipped toright point of needle before being cast off.

Next row: (purl row) Cast ofi 3, (Knit them ofi), yo, p across row.

Next row: (knit row) Cast off 3, K across row.

Next row: (purl row) Cast off 22, yo, P across row.

(knit row) Cast off 3, K across row. (purl row) Cast off 6, yo, P across*K5, K2 tog. Repeat from across row. Next row: (purl row) Cast off 6,yo, P across row.

Next row: (knit row) Cast off 6, K across row.

- Next row: (purl row) Cast off 6, yo, P across row.

Next row: (knit row) Cast off 6, K across row.

Next row: (purl row) Cast off all, not too tight.

Knitting information To pick up cast-0n stitches: Hold right side ofupper brim to you, with cast-on edge at top. Using loops at very edge ofwork insert left point of circular needle into loop of cast on stitch.Insert right point of needle into same loop, as for knitting, and knitthis stitch onto right point of needle. Repeat from working to left,until 25.5 sts. are picked up. Tie yarn when last stitch is picked up.vTie colored thread to your several inches of free yarn, so as to pointout beginning of each row to follow. Important: Pick up carefully overknot made when upper brim stitches were cast on. Do not force point ofneedle through knot, but pick up this one stitch directly under knot,being sure not to miss the next stitch to left of knot.

DIAGRAM Penn' WHERE, PICK-Ur xmrrrnc 0 meer "e MDE' .JJ m I o CAST-OFFers. Afr CENTER eAoK Represents last cast-off stitch at center back onnished upper brim. The cast-on stitch directly above and in line With isfirst pick up stitch for under brim.

Directions for under brim (circular needles) Pick up, and knit ontocircular needles the 255 sts. around outer edge of upper brim. Repeatdirections for upper brim, including directions enclosed withinbrackets.

Instructions for covering frame:

4 I. Steam press knitted pieces lightly, before placing them onto frame.Brim is pressed on the double.

II. Basting. Use cotton thread, unlike color of yarn. Sew in and outthrough frame.

III. Step 1.-Place cast-oit edge of top crown at center front of frametop. Let this edge and all edges of this piece fit down to groove lineof frame. Baste into place. Baste cast-on edge to center back of top.Pull sides into place, baste along straight edges. Pull interveningsides into place and baste. Sew permanently with double cotton threadwhich matches yarn. Pull out basting thread.

Step 2.--Find center back of upper brim. Fit it over center back offrame brim and with right hand holding knitted brim in place, work pieceonto brim counterclockwise. Work slowly, as

frame brim will likely bend temporarily during this process. Straighteninto exact place. Baste around outer edge, with pick up line preciselyin place along edge of brim. Pull inner edge of under brim slightly upinto inside of hat. Whip into place (not catching inner edge of upperbrim knitting).

Step 3.-Place crown band onto hat with narrow ribbing at top. Baste topedge barely over line of sewing done around edge of top crown; at sametime, however, see that band comes over top crown enough to coverreducing and increasing sts. of top crown. With single strand matchingthread, sew in and out, through frame, through every, or every othercast-off stitch around edge of rib. Break oif thread on inside of hatwhen finished securely. With lower edge of crown band slightlyoverlapping inside edge of upper brim, sew through knitting only tocatch those two edges together. Make neat, pulled tight stitches here,as ribbing takes the place of ribbon trim on hat. Let crown band wrinkleabove lower ribbing for casual eiect. Pull out basting threads on brimedge.

Step 4.-Lining. Light weight material. Circle 61/2 in diameter. Biaspiece 41/2" X 33". Gather one edge of bias piece evenly around edge ofcircle. Seam allowance Let ends of bias strip overlap 1/2 at back. Pressseam toward center. Place lining into hat, turn raw edge under 1A. Whipinto place barely over edge of knitting.

Step 5.-I-Iat pins (optional). Cover any size hat4 pin head by castingon 4 sts., increasing each end of every row to desired width. Decreaseback to 4 sts. Slip over pin head, sew` sides together and small endstogether around pin.

Note: Do not handle uncovered frame with damp cloth. Do not pull anyloose threads on frame, but cut them oif with scissors.

Alternate directions Top-Same.

Crown band-With circular needles, cast-on 176 sts. Rib in K2, P2 for 1".

Next row: K2, *P2 tog., K2, P2, K2. Repeat from i* around row, endingwith K2, P2, after last P2 tog.

Knit plain for 2".

Next row: K2 tog., K2 tog., P2 *K2, P2. Repeat from around row.

Rib in K2, P2 for 4 more rows.

Cast oii as for single rib crown band.

Upper brim- With circular needles, cast-on 255 sts. Knit plain for 1/2(6 rows).

Next row: *K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2 tog., PI. Repeat from itaround row.

Next row: Rib in K2, P2. Rib in K2, P2 for 5 more rows.

Next row: *KL P2, K2, P2, K2, P2 tog. Repeat from it around row, endingwith K2, P2, K2, P2, after last P2 tog. (220 sts. now on needle.)

Rest of work same as for single rib brims.

From the foregoing description it Will be apparent that the presentinvention provides a new and useful framed hand-knit hat and method formaking the same which may be manufactured and distributed either incompleted or in kit form, and that the invention is not limited to theparticular embodiments herein described. It is therefore to beunderstood that the exemplary embodiments herein described areillustrative and not restrictive of the invention, the scope of theinvention being defined in the appended claims.

All'modiiications which come within the meaning and range of equivalencyof the claims are therefore intended to be included therein.

I claim as my invention:

l. A framed knitted hat comprising a buckram frame having a crown and abrim, a knitted generally circular crown-top mounted on the top of saidframe crown, a knitted generally annular brim cover mounted on saidframe-brim and covering the top and bottom thereof, and a knittedsleeve-like crown-band embracing the sides of the frame-crown and inlapping relation to the outer edge of said crown-top and the inner upperedge of said brim cover.

2. A framed knitted hat comprising a buckram frame having a crown and abrim, a knitted generally circular crown-top mounted on the top of saidframe crown, a knitted seamless generally annular brim cover mounted onsaid framebrim and covering the top and bottom thereof, and a knittedseamless sleeve-like crown-band embracing the sides of the frame-crownand in lapping relation to the outer edge of said crown-top and theinner upper edge of said brim cover.

3. A framed knitted hat comprising a buckram frame having a crown and abrim, a knitted generally annular brim cover mounted on said frame brimand covering the topv and bottom thereof, and a knitted sleeve-likecrown band embracing the sides of the frame crown in lapping relation tothe inner upper edge of said brim cover.

4. In a framed knitted hat, a buckram frame having a brim, and arelatively elastic knitted seamless generally annular brim cover ofinwardly opening U-shaped cross-section resiliently enclosing said brimand covering the top and bottom faces thereof.

5. A framed hand-knot hat comprising a buckram frame having a crown anda brim, a handknit seamless one-piece crown band embracing said crown,and a hand-knit seamless one-piece relatively elastic generallyannularbrim cover of inwardly opening U-shaped cross-section enclosing saidbrim.

6. A framed knit hat comprising a buckram frame having a crown and abrim, a hand-knit seamless one-piece relatively elastic generallyannular brim cover of inwardly opening U- shaped cross-section enclosingsaid brim, and a hand-knit seamless one-piece crown band embracing saidcrown and the upper inner edge of said brim cover, said crown bandhaving an integral ribbed section contiguous to its lower edgesimulating a ribbon trim.

'7. A framed knit hat having a buckram frame comprising a crown and abrim and having a circular knit continuous annular brim cover ofinwardly opening U-shaped cross-section embracing its frame brim.

8. A knit brim cover for a framed knit hat including a brim, said covercomprising an upper generally annular section bound off at its inneredge and a lower generally annular section bound off at its inner edge,said two sections being joined at their outer annular edges by a brimedging pick-up line.

9. A knit crown-band for a framed knit hat including a crown, saidcrown-band being in the form of a continuous circular knit tube ofpredetermined depth, said tube being tightly bound oi at its upperannular edge so as to provide thereat a relatively inelastic pucker-freecrowntop framing edge of reduced circumference.

'10. The method of forming a hand-knit hat on a buckram frame having acrown and a brim, which consists in knitting a crown-top section ofapproximately circular form, circular knitting a continuous one-piecegenerally annular seamless brim-cover of inwardly opening U- shapedcross-section, and circular knitting a continuous one-piece crown-bandbound off at its upper edge with a radius less than that of said crowntop section, applying the knitted topsection and brim-cover to thecorresponding parts of the frame, and applying the knitted crown-bandabout the 'crown of the frame with its bound-off edge overlapping theedge of the crown-top and its lower edge lapping the inner upper edge ofthe brim-cover section.

11. A method according to claim in which parts are stockinette-knit, inwhich the crownband is rib-knit contiguous to its top and bottom edges,and in which the top and bottom walls of the brim-cover are rib-knit inbands concentric with and spaced from the rim edge thereof.

12. A method according to claim 10, in which parts are stockinette-knitand in which the crown-top is applied to the form with its knit rowsdirected parallel to the front-to-back center line of the frame-crown.

13. The method of knitting a hat brim cover which consists in casting ona suicient number of stitches to correspond to the outer circumferenceof the brim to be covered, circular-knitting a seamless rst generallyflat annular brim covering wall and binding off the saine with an innercircumference corresponding to the inner circumference of the brim to becovered, picking up the initially cast-on stitches and circular knittingtherefrom a second seamless generally at annular wall and binding offthe same with an inner circumference somewhat smaller than the innercircumference of the brim to be covered.

14. A knit brim cover for a framed knit hat including a brim, said covercomprising upper and lower generally annular circular knit sectionsjoined at their outer edges and each progressively decreasing in numberof stiches per knit row from its outer edge to its inner edge generallyin proportion to the radius of the row, whereby said brim coverinherently presents an inwardly opening parallel walled U-shaped crosssection substantially free from pucker in an unstretched condition.

15. A knit brim cover according to claim 14 in which in at least one ofsaid sections the rows of knitting adjacent the inner row thereof areincomplete circular rows having at one side of the annulus gaps thereinwidening progressively toward the inermost row, whereby the annulus isfashioned to ilt a brim frame or" nonuniform width.

16. For use in the productionoi a framed hand-knit hat, a kit comprisinga frame for the hat,l yarn, and instructions for producing said hat inaccordance with the method of claim 10.

17. For use in the production of a framed hand-knit hat, a kitcomprising a frame for the hat, yarn, and instructions for producingtherefrom a hat according to claim 1.

MARGARET M. REDDY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the ille ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,065,143 Kinnard June 17, 1913r1,638,349 Lipper Aug. 9, 1927 1,781,196 Rosenberg Nov. 11, 19301,812,420 Weiner June 30, 1931 1,856,230 Silberstein May 3, 19321,915,092 Hendrickson June 20, 1933 2,035,384 Hinchliff Mar. 24, 19362,330,199 Basen Sept. 28, 1943 2,437,525 Harvel Mar. 9, 1948

